All-Over
A pattern that covers the entire surface of the tie with single or multiple motifs.
University Tie
Any tie bearing the colors or insignia of a school or university, particularly in Britain.
Twill
A weave with fine diagonal ribs. Most often used for printed silk.
Tipping
Pieces of acetate or silk sewn onto the back of the tips of both ends of the tie.
Spitalsfield
A tie pattern that was a specialty of the textile mills
of those areas of London
at the turn of the century and became fashionable in the 1920s. Small, geometric
designs give an effect of marquetry across the surface.(Macclesfield).
Slip-Stitch
The end of the thread, several inches long, deliberately
left free in
quality ties at one end of the lengthwise seam in order to let the tie stretch.
This is indispensable if the tie is to maintain its shape and drape.
Seven-Fold Tie
A tie without an interlining. Its firmness and shape are assured by the quantity of silk itself.
Satin Weave
A weave in which at least three warp yarns are floated over one weft yarn or vice versa forming a smooth compact surface.
Repp
Fabric with ribs running perpendicular to the selvedge.
Regimental Tie
Any tie with diagonal stripes in regimental colors.
Printed Silk
Silk whose colored patterns have been printed onto instead of woven in.
Old School Tie, Old Boys Tie
Any tie bearing the colors or insignia of a school or
university, particularly
in Britain.
Mogadore
A very finely woven fabric with as many as 124 warp threads per centimeter of silk warp and silk, cotton, or linen weft.
Madder
Term designating a specific color range and texture in some silks, obtained by dying them with a madder-root extract, giving them an indigo bath, and treating their surfaces. Characterized by deep muted colors and soft, suede-like finishes.
Macclesfield
A tie pattern that was a specialty of the textile mills
of those areas of London
at the turn of the century and became fashionable in the 1920s. Small, geometric
designs give an effect of marquetry across the surface. (Spitalsfield)
Jacquard Silk
Silk woven on Jacquard looms, allowing for the use of threads of various colors to weave a motif.
Interlining
The piece of material, most often wool or wool blend, inserted inside the envelope of the tie to give it body and shape.
Hand
Term used in the textile industry to describe a fabric1s texture and consistency.
Grenadine
A loose weave using twisted yarns, resulting in a fabric
that resembles a knit,
which has excellent drape, maintains its shape, and knots well.
Four-In-Hand
The modern necktie, possibly named because its knot with two long, trailing ends resembled the reins of a four-horse carriage.
Float
A weave in which each turn of the weft thread is crossed by at least three warp threads, or vice versa. This configuration produces satin.
Faille
A silk weave with thin, tight warp threads and thick, loose weft threads, resulting in a surface with pronounced transverse ribs.
Club Tie
Tie bearing the printed or woven emblem of a club, organization or institution.
Bow Tie
Generally, either the straight end bat-wing or the thistle
shape. Thistle shape is
also called the butterfly, since the opera Madam Butterfly was performed with
success in 1904.
Bengal Stripes
Stripes of identical width but of alternating light and dark colors. Also commonly seen in shirtings.
Basketweave
A plain weave with two or more yarns woven together, resembling the weave of a basket or the squares of a checkerboard.